Pingyao is China's best preserved
ancient walled city. Here you almost feel you have gone back in time
to Imperial days. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/812
I have a good vegetarian breakfast at
the hostel of fruit, muesli, yoghurt and toast. There is so much
fruit though that I decide to take it onto the train for lunch. The
prospect of braving Xian's crowds to make the trip to Pingyao fills
me with trepidation. However the subway journey to the railway
station passes off without undue inconvenience. When I get there I
have to ask directions to the railway station entrance as it's not
altogether clear. I don't feel so tired now although I'm not sure how
to get to the hotel I've booked, as traffic inside the old city is
restricted. However this is soon solved as I get a message from the
hotel offering me a pick up from the railway station for RMB 30
(Around £3).
While travelling around China by rail
I'm reminded of the episode in the film Gandhi
when Gandhi travels around India by rail with his family to
experience the land and find out about the people. I feel fascinated
and privileged too.
On
board the train I go to the toilet and notice a little knot of
railway police around a suitcase. They are talking with some Chinese
ladies who gesture excitedly, they're also laughing and taking
photos. This is a curious scene, but I think little of it as I pass
by. However on exiting the toilet I notice with alarm that the
policemen have produced a large, thick black sheet which they lay on
the floor and which has the words printed on it in English, in large
bold white, “BOMB SUPPRESSION BLANKET.” I wonder whether to take
this seriously, and on going back to my seat manage with some success
to divest myself of the idea that the train is about to be derailed
by an explosion.
Another
thing you experience on Chinese trains is the presence of Logan's
Run/Total Recall-esque announcements couched in pleasant and relaxing
voices and expressions wishing you a pleasant journey but issuing a
series of instructions (no smoking, please mind the gaps when getting
off the train, don't annoy other travellers etc.) and warning gently
of dire consequences if any of these are infringed. However most of
this is just common sense. The fruit I've got sees me through
lunchtime and I realise I haven't brought any tissue paper for my
fingers. Fortunately the Chinese lady next to me kindly provides
some!
On
arrival at the station there is a driver waiting for me with a sign
which has my name on it, so I'm driven to the hotel. For what seems
an age, (probably about 25-30 minutes) we pass through mile after
mile of dreary modern town. At last I glimpse the city wall ahead, we
pass through an arched entrance. The driver parks up and we have to
walk to the hotel as the roads here are completely pedestrianised
with barriers to stop cars from trying to drive through.
I'm
shown to my room, although it's very small it's very charming and has
a special old-world feeling to it. It's right on South Street, ( the
main street of the old town). It's a conversion of an old courtyard
house, so has a Chinese kang
bed which is built into the room. It's a raised platform with a
futon-style mattress. Actually I had the foresight to bring my
inflatable mattress with me so I can be assured of a comfortable
night. I've decided to just relax and enjoy the old town.
This is the courtyard of the hotel.
The corridor to the reception area.
I
spend the afternoon and evening around South Street where my hotel
is. I'm a bit sad really, as I rely on Lonely Planet (LP) to guide me
around as Pingyao can be a bit tricky for the first time visitor as
there are very few English signs. LP is very good though as an
introduction to somewhere you've never visited before.
Fascinatingly,
there are a number of costumed processions through the centre of the
town. I'm not sure what these are, I gather they are a re-enactment
of an ancient custom.
I find the nearest bars through Lonely Planet:
There
are fascinating markets and souvenir shops everywhere along here.
There is a real feeling of ancient history and adventure in Pingyao!
The
whole area is magical at night. I walk around and soon find the
nearest local bars. I also have dumplings for a late afternoon snack
and supper later.
Street lanterns are everywhere especially around North and South Street.
This restaurant sells Pingyao hotpot. There are a number of local dishes like Pingyao Beef, (cold boiled beef) local noodles that look a bit like canneloni, and hotpot.
There is a special atmosphere at night.
This is the hotel at night. It feels very romantic.
I make up the bed.
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