I
set my alarm for 8.30 am and have a lie-in before checking my emails
over some coffee and fruit, followed by a shower and a careful
session packing my cases. I take my time as the train leaves for
Yangshuo at 12.30 so I plan to check out at 10.30 and order a taxi to
the railway station. The hotel lady is happy to organise this and as
always I'm dubious about setting off so early, however I know what
Chinese railway stations are like so I'd rather hang about than panic
that I might miss the train. I've booked a first-class seat for the
24-minute journey. In the taxi I typically worry myself that I've
forgotten something but of course this turns out to be unwarranted.
The
wait for the train at Guilin station is as normal: the interminable
wait for the gate to open, huge lines, and Chinese ladies walking to
the front of the queue. On board the train I feel a mounting sense
of anticipation as the landscape begins to change, becoming more
dramatic and mysterious looking, reminding me of HP Lovecraft's
Arkham stories especially as the thrice-accursed fog persists even now
limiting the view. The hills become steeper and obelisk-like as we
pass, and we go through a number of tunnels so we must be passing
through some of the hills.
On
arrival at Yangshuo station there are no taxis, just a line of
mini-buses to Xingping for RMB5, which is as cheap as anything so I
jump on to one of these with my bags. I'm unsure about how to get to
the hostel once we arrive however I overhear a Chinese traveller
talking in English to two Spanish ladies: they're all going to the
same place so I ask to tag along. As it turns out he doesn't seem too
sure of how to get there himself so I produce the address printed in
Chinese and ask directions. It turns out to be further away than
expected: Chinese signs displaying distances seem generally to
understate these.
On
arrival at the hostel an embarrassing scene takes place. I've called
in advance to check they will take my VISA card and been told they
will. This turns out not to be the case and I'm very unhappy, clearly
someone has misunderstood me. I should have asked a Chinese friend
to check for me. I ask the staff to show me where the bank is and one
of the girls at the desk takes me to two banks in the town but they
won't take my VISA card. And the nearest bank that will is in
Yangshuo. Feeling tired and overwhelmed I persuade them to check me
in and arrange to go to Yangshuo the next day to draw out the sum in
cash: about RMB 3000 for 18 days. As I haven't got such a sum with
me. I'm also hungry so have a pizza in the hostel once checked in;
it's very good as they actually make it in a wood-fired pizza oven,
traditional Italian style. (This turns out to be a local speciality.)
Feeling
more relaxed I unpack in my room, which is clean if rather basic. But
at only £12 a night it's a lot cheaper than a YHA in England so I
have no complaints. I decide to go out and try to find another bank
by myself: the weather is now much milder than in Beijing, like a
wintry day in England and I don't need so many layers on me. Walking
out I explore the area and find a branch of Agricultural Bank of
China which to my surprise, has a VISA sign on it, so I draw out the
much-needed cash and complete the transaction for my stay.
The
limestone peaks around Xingping have a prehistoric feel about them: I
have associations with Jurassic Park and the Lost World, but also
with the Lake District and the Derbyshire Hills in England. At last I
begin to feel I have arrived at my destination and begin to relax.
Xingping
itself is actually rather disappointing. It's being developed into a
tourist centre and there are hotels being built everywhere so at
present the view from the hostel is spoiled, but will be obliterated
in a few months' time. Fortunately there is a rooftop viewing area
and bar area which is good for photography.
The
limestone peaks around Xingping have a prehistoric feel about them: I
have associations with Jurassic Park and the Lost World, but also
with the Lake District and the Derbyshire Hills in England.
At last I
begin to feel I have arrived at my destination and begin to relax.
Xingping itself is actually rather disappointing. It's being
developed into a tourist centre and there are hotels being built
everywhere so at present the view from the hostel is spoiled, but
will be obliterated in a few months' time. Fortunately there is a
rooftop viewing area and bar area which is good for photography. I
write up an account of the previous day and go down to the hostel bar
where I have a second pizza as I'm too tired to go anywhere else, and
end up talking to some other guests: one is the Chinese gentleman
from the bus: (he is rather over-talkative but pleasant) and another
is an Englishman from Worcestershire as I recall. The girl from the
desk who took me to the bank comes in: I chat to her, thank her for
her help and explain that I've managed to resolve the earlier
problem, so she seems happy. I've never felt comfortable with
attacking people over a mistake: it doesn't work. So after a few
bottles of Chinese beer I walk back to my room planning to spend the next
day relaxing and getting my bearings, always a good idea on or after
the day of arrival. Although this has been a relatively short stage
of the journey it has been fraught with uncertainties and
difficulties, and I'm exhausted.
Just
how exhausted becomes clear when I set my alarm for 8am, and go to
bed at about 11. I have a fitful night and wake once or twice, but
essentially I sleep over more or less 9 hours and feel drowsy when my
alarm goes off. I think this is partly due to emotional exhaustion. I
have some breakfast of fruit and waffles in the hostel cafe and
decide to explore Xingping. The landscape is inspiring and I'm still
hoping for some fine weather to bring out the best of it. It also
lends itself to fantasy and once again I am reminded of Rider Haggard
and Conan Doyle.
The
voyage has been long and not without its moments. The hostel is
pleasant with a rustic feel and tastefully decorated, although it is
a backpacker hostel and I tend to find such people tiresome. I'm sure
I'll find convivial company, probably among the Chinese at some
stage. I usually do.
There
are a number of small restaurants around the area and plenty of
opportunities to try different kinds of Chinese food: beer fish and
sour fish are two specialities: they also offer wood-fired pizzas in
many places. The area has an atavistic quality which I hope to
explore more. I want to penetrate it and rediscover the sense of
wonder I had as a boy.
I
do have one opportunity to do this when when I get the chance to join
cormorant fishermen on the Lijiang River at night: it has a magically
atmospheric quality and is cloaked in a peaceful and powerfully
evocative silence.However I resolve to try a number of other ways of
exploring the area by walking, cycling and by boat.
