Friday, August 26, 2016

NO PLACE LIKE HOME



One of the world’ s great clichés but it’s true, there really is no place like home. You don’t realise it until you’ve been away for a long time. I’ve found myself contemplating my own mortality in a way I never did before, and many times I reflect on some of the things I’ve read in the past, tales of travel to another land, another world. Oddly enough, my coming home has lent a context to my time in China, as if it doesn’t mean anything without a homecoming. Ordinary as England and Nottingham now seems, perhaps I have just exchanged one kind of ordinariness for another. Before I did it travel to this amazing land seemed a remarkable concept: now it seems totally ordinary.




I visit old friends and and family looking to the future because there is no place else to go. 
Sarah and I visit Castleton and Lincoln, walking along the hills in Derbyshire, and staying in the Cathedral grounds in Lincoln, It is  a good way to say goodbye or at least, see you next time!










I have been so happy to see my family and spend some quality time with them. Sometimes the idea of going on such a long journey seems deathlike, filled with goodbyes and feelings of leaving. I know this is a kind of metaphorical thinking, but it’s hard not to draw this parallel. 



Now I am saying goodbye to England again, but I have found a new way of looking at it: the vision of the visitor. I feel as if I were walking toward an abyss. The only healthy way to look forward is to take things one step at a time, as my wife Sarah says to me always: the wise woman.



Thursday, August 18, 2016

ENGLAND IN SUMMERTIME: SHROPSHIRE HILLS



Shortly after we get back from Whitby we travel to Shropshire where we have visited previously in 2010 and 2013. There is something deeply comforting about visiting a familiar area especially after  a long absence. We decide to pursue an itinerary of tried and trusted places, beginning with the George and Dragon at Much Wenlock, where we have lunch: Shropshire faggots and peas!




Following this we arrive at our cottage and spend the afternoon unpacking and making ourselves at home.  




We go out for a walk and although the local pub is not open yet, the landlady does let us buy a drink while we sit outside  in the sunshine and wait for it to open. We go inside and have a pleasant talk before going back to the cottage for cheese and crackers: all we can manage after such a big lunch!





The Shropshire Hills is a gently undulating landscape with a variety of walks and hills with beautiful views, plus lovely old pubs, attractive market towns, castles and a glorious array of food: the only drawback, depending on your point of view of course is that the portions are often so large you cannot eat it all! However I cannot complain, the wholesome English grub is doing wonders for my health! We have a lazy Sunday walking in the morning, then having Sunday Lunch at the Boyne, a nearby pub (where I get invited to join the men’s cricket team and politely decline as I can’t play for toffee) and cap off with a visit o the Howard which is our local. 





The owners are unfailingly friendly and charming. The cottage is attached to an old vicarage with stables, dogs and chickens roaming the grounds!






The weather is beautiful throughout and Monday sees us walking up Brown Clee Hill, Shropshire’s highest point, from which you can see to the Black Mountains in Wales. We take packed lunches with us and in the evening have dinner at the cottage again. The walk takes less time than we think so we have a liquid lunch in a nearby pub. I have prepared a big Greek stifado at the cottage which we have for dinner. We both feel it’s best not to have too many dinners out to save money and have brought plenty of food!














We go to Ludlow the next morning and spend most of the day shopping: this charming old market town is filled with epicurean shops and markets, so we buy a lot of deli food and prepare a big platter in the evening. We have visited the castle before so decide not to repeat the experience although it is a fascinating building.  We end up just having snacks for lunch as our favourite pub has closed down and we can’t find any light lunches! 










Food is one of our great pleasures and we make the most of it: it’s mostly “man food”, big portions and loads of meat and fish! In the pub we are getting to be well known as the people are so friendly, and we feel like locals!



We visit Bridgnorth, which is on the River Severn and is on two levels separated by a high cliff. Here there is a cliff railway which we use to descend to the lower town. It’s very old, a piece of history from the Industrial Revolution and was at one time operated by water pressure.










Here we give in to a pub lunch and the food is great but the portions are enormous so I feel guilty about not being able to polish it all off! 












We spend a bit of time on the Cliff Railway and I have managed to break my glasses so try in vain to find another pair: my spares are at home so I have to mange with sticky tape for the time being. I discover Lapsang Souchong tea which Sarah tries and is hooked!




Our second walk up Caer Caradoc Hill near Church Stretton has the best views of the week and the weather is stunning.


















We have the usual Shropshire-sized lunch: I am eating as much fish and chips as I can get hold of on account of having missed it in China. The pub at Cardington, the Royal Oak, was once, it seems, visited by Prince Edward so Sarah calls it the Prince Eddie as she can’t remember the name. It’s a delightful old place and as ever the people are friendly and polite. We cannot fault the hospitality.







We decide to make spaghetti in the evening and round off at the Howard as usual. At night the area seems very atmospheric and a little ghostly, with bats flittering about and the odd fox.










On Friday we visit Church Stretton again and walk up Cardington Mill Valley to the Long Mynd. Would you believe it: a cyclist drags his mountain bike all the way up this craggy and rather tortuous walk to a lovely waterfall ending in a sheer cliff!  It turns out he has taken the wrong road and I do feel a bit sorry for him as it must have been exhausting.





We have another pub lunch and I have my default dish again, which at least is a normal portion size, and do a little shopping. Sarah really enjoys this walk. The weather is the best we have had all week in the morning with wall-to wall sunshine. As it’s our last night we finish off with a pub dinner of steak for Sarah and crab salad for me: irresistible! I have a farewell beer at the local as Sarah feels a little tired.






I have indulged my tastes for all the English things I love, the countryside, pubs, beer and food.